Sima and Marcellino Verzino
"The intoxication of exceptional food and drink enables a man to laugh and sing and forget for a while the sorrow of his earthly miseries."
Chef Marcellino has opened restaurants in Calabria and Abruzzo, cooked on the island of Poros in Greece and owned trendy bistros in Rome. In New York, the chef received a highly coveted rating of 'Excellence' from the New York Times for his superior cuisine at Riva Grill, and was awarded for his outstanding contribution to the James Beard Foundation. Combined with his vast knowledge of wine and the experience of creating incredible dining experiences around the world, Chef Marcellino has now added Phoenix to his internationally established fan base with the opening of Marcellino Ristorante.
Phoenix Accolades and Articles
| Biltmore Lifestyles - Susan Jarke | Award-winning Chef Marcellino Verzino opens Marcellino Ristorante in Phoenix | Nov. 2003 |
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This is the real deal. Italian cuisine that doesn't require a passport or an 11-hour flight. Marcellino Ristorante is award-winning Chef Marcellino Verzino's much-anticipated new restaurant, has made its Phoenix debut on October 20, 2003. Lights fade, curtain up - Mangia! Chef Marcellino and his lovely and extraordinarily talented wife, Sima Verzino, have created a restaurant that will revolutionize the Italian dining scene in the Valley. Marcellino Ristorante features hand-made Italian pasta flavored with its own special ingredients, served with a specifically created sauce and presented on an individually designed plate. Chef Marcellino began cooking at the age of 11 on his family's large farm in Italy. The naturally talented young chef was inspired by his grandmother's cooking and carries many of her culinary secrets with him today. "Hands on" experience at such a young age has permanently etched a uniquely creative edge in his imagination and culinary creativity…resulting in what can be best described as truly modern Italian cuisine with old-world flavor. Chef Marcellino has opened restaurants in Calabria and Abruzzo, cooked on the island of Poros in Greece and owned trendy bistros in Rome. In New York, the chef received a Four Star review by the New York Times for his superior cuisine at Riva Grill, and was awarded for his outstanding contribution to the James Beard Foundation. Combined with his vast knowledge of wine and the experience of creating incredible dining experiences around the world, Chef Marcellino has now added Phoenix to his internationally established fan base with the opening of Marcellino Ristorante. Marcellino Ristorante's menu features pasta dishes such as Fettuccine Contadina, a handmade pasta with a fresh sauce of sliced asparagus, sautéed scallions, fresh tomato, arugola and ricotta; and Linguine al Basilico, a handmade, green, basil-flavored pasta with chunks of tuna, cherry tomatoes, mint and chives. The menu also includes a delicious variety of Pesce and Carne dishes, as well as a wide selection of Antipasti, Insalate and Dolci, including Marcellino's Panna Cotta, floating in fig sauce with fresh berries. Entrees are $15 and up, depending on Marcellino's special of the day, and an extensive wine list features Italian favorites as well as California vintages. Glasses range from $6.50 to $15 and bottles from $18 to $80. Chef Marcellino and his wife, Sima are thrilled to invite and share with Valley diners an intimate and very personal dining experience in their exquisite ristorante, located at 1301 East Northern Avenue. Reservations are recommended (602-216-0004). For further information, please contact FORMA Media and Management at 602-956-0211. |
| North Central News - Teri Carnicelli | No Passport required for authentic Italian dining | Dec. 2003 |
| Arizona Republic - Howard Seftel | Marcellino Ristorante rivals Valley’s top Italian eateries | Jan. 2004 |
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How do you create a vibrant, thriving neighborhood? Good schools, parks, a mix of stores, libraries and safe streets are certainly key parts of the formula. Throw restaurants into the equation, too, especially if they're anything like the new Marcellino Ristorante in north-central Phoenix. This is the kind of big-city Italian spot that could spike up neighborhood property values. It's the work of big-city chef Marcellino Verzino, who has cooked all over Italy and whose last stint in New York got impressive notices. New York, however, is a huge pond, with scores of top-notch Italian restaurants. Phoenix is a small pond, with just a handful of outstanding Italian restaurants. Make it a handful, plus one: Marcellino can confidently swim with this town's biggest fish. It's set in a typically cheerless shopping strip, in a storefront that has housed Italian restaurants for decades. Inside, though, you see touches of class. They include a two-tiered dining area, a handsome wine rack, effective lighting and sheer fabric window shades to screen out the parking-lot view. The contemporary, streamlined look - no art on the terra-cotta-colored walls, no fussy plants, no tourist-board posters, no Old Country knickknacks - suggests an operation focused on food. And what food it is. It's nothing you haven't eaten before - chef Marcellino isn't trying to reinvent the cuisine. But he knows that Italian cooking is all about freshness, primo ingredients and big, bold flavors. Maybe that's why almost everything here snaps you instantly to attention, especially the fresh, homemade pasta. Dinner gets started with focaccia, crusty Italian bread and a nifty eggplant dip. But don't fill up now. You want to be hungry to get full benefit from the courses to follow. Appetizers are generally an energetic bunch. There's no stinting on the garlic and white wine that bring a big bowl of mussels ($8.95) to life. What could be simpler than three fat grilled shrimp atop a feta cheese croquette ($11.95)? Nevertheless, the flavors they produce are explosive. That's also true for the wedges of polenta draped in a rich mushroom sauce ($8.95). Two versions of carpaccio are well crafted. Beef carpaccio ($8.95), thin-sliced raw beef with arugula and Parmesan cheese in a light lemon dressing, doesn't mess with tradition. Tuna carpaccio ($9.95) is more fanciful: sashimilike tuna splashed with olive oil and lemon, deftly accented with an unexpected hint of mint. Sea bass wrapped in cabbage leaves ($8.95), however, seems to have wandered over from another restaurant's main dish section. It's an awkward way to start a meal. And Marcellino might consider putting the caprese ($7.95) on hold until summer tomato season rolls around. The undisputed star attraction is pasta. Don't bother even opening the menu until the waiter does his show-and-tell spiel about the evening's pasta specials. Armed with a display plate featuring at least six different kinds of pasta, he lovingly describes how the chef will be showcasing them. (The regular menu offers seven more options that are always available.) You can make them your main dish, or split a plate and create a pasta course between the appetizer and entree. Atkins, schmatkins: Carbohydrates like these will never go out of style. Take the squid ink-blackened fettuccine ($28.95), riotously heaped with lobster, clams, mussels and squid and bathed in a smashing marinara sauce that tastes like it just wafted in from the Italian coast. Shiitake mushrooms and a light butter sauce ratchet up the earthy intensity of porcini mushroom fettuccine ($19.95). Luscious black pepper ravioli ($17.95) are stuffed with sausage and brocoletti di rape, a vegetable related to cabbage whose greens add bitter, pungent notes. The chef goes offbeat with pappardelle ($16.95), tossing the thick pasta ribbons with an entertaining, rosemary-tinged lamb ragu. But there's nothing cutesy about the high-powered tagliolini, long, thin, flat noodles accompanied by four whole jumbo prawns, lightly coated with tomato sauce ($24.95). It's almost impossible not to order the strozzaprete ($14.95) once you learn that the name means "priest-stranglers." These al dente ribbons get full Italian treatment from brocoletti di rape and a no-holds dose of olive oil, garlic and white wine. But olive oil, garlic and white wine couldn't rescue one evening's saffron linguine in clam sauce ($17.95). How could they, when the clams were marred by sandy grit? Among the non-pasta entrees, three stand out. The gripping filet mignon ($25.95) is deeply satisfying, a thick slab of beef burnished by a rich Barolo wine reduction and drizzled with truffle-infused olive oil. The zuppa di pesce ($24.95), shellfish, salmon and rockfish floating in a big bowl of aromatic tomato broth alongside crusty rafts of toasted Italian bread, practically dances with rustic liveliness. And there's nothing ordinary about the liver ($20.95), sautéed with grapes and touched with cognac. In contrast, veal scaloppine ($17.95) comes in a rich, mild Gorgonzola cream sauce that emphasizes texture over taste. Fontina cheese might correct the balance. Desserts ($6.95 each) are worth lingering over, particularly the galette - puff pastry lined with apple, topped with a scoop of hazelnut ice cream and drizzled with caramel sauce. Panna cotta, tiramisu, ricotta cheesecake and a custard fruit tart form a solid supporting cast. It's not only the food that's big-city skillful. The chef's charming wife, Sima, knows how to work the front of the house. You'll arrive to a greeting and leave with a handshake. Servers concentrate on serving, not trying to be your friend. The chef pops out of the kitchen to see how you're doing. By my third visit, I was being treated as a regular, entitling my group to gratis glasses of homemade lemon liqueur at the end of dinner. That warm feeling in my belly, however, wasn't only from the alcohol. Marcellino Ristorante meets the toughest neighborhood-Italian restaurant test: It works on a too-pooped-to-cook midweek night when you need pasta and Chianti comfort. It also works as a weekend splurge when you require the full, multicourse treatment. This is one neighborhood attraction worth a drive from almost any Valley neighborhood. |
| AZ Food and Lifestyles - Candy Lesher | Restaurant Reviews, Marcellino Ristorante | Jan. 2004 |
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Best New Chef, Golden Plate Award: "Marcellino is a maestro in the kitchen, and Sima makes every guest feel like family." |
| Phoenix Magazine - Nikki Buchanan | The North & South | Feb. 2004 |
| Phoenix Home and Garden - Teresa E. | Table Talk, Marcellino Ristorante | Feb. 2004 |
| Arizona Republic – Sadie Jo Smokey | Mellow Yellow & Delicious | Feb. 2004 |
| Arizona Republic – Barbara Yost | Sauce from a Jar? | Mar. 2004 |
| AZ Food and Lifestyles - Candy Lesher | The Valley’s Best New Chefs / Golden Plate Award | Mar. 2004 |
| AZ Business Magazine - Molly Smith | Review | Mar. 2004 |
| AZFamily.com - Nikki Buchanan | Nikki's Restaurant Reviews | Apr. 2004 |
| Chef-owner Marcellino Verzino takes pasta lovers well beyond spaghetti and meatballs, offering fresh, house-made pastas with interesting (and sometimes unusual) sauces. Daily pasta selections, uncooked and presented in graceful twirls, are brought around for customer inspection as the server describes the pastas and sauces of the day. Both porcini fettuccine and pacatelli al ragu di salciccia are menu standbys for good reason: they're excellent. The carb-phobic will be relieved to know that this contemporary but cozy Italian restaurant also features fresh seafood (try the zuppa di pesce or porcini-dusted salmon), pork, beef and chicken dishes with an emphasis on freshness and simplicity. Meals get under way with good bread (including house-made focaccia) and eggplant-roasted red pepper dip, but do save room for imaginative appetizers such as sea bass and mascarpone, wrapped in cabbage, or shrimp with feta crochetta. The wine list needs work, but this charming restaurant has plenty going for it, including Marcellino's wife, Sima, who makes everyone feel welcome. Lunch is served Tuesday-Friday; dinner is served Monday-Saturday. |
| Where Magazine - Lisa Polacheck | Hot Tips Dining | Apr. 2004 |
| Arizona Foothills - Dawson Fearnow | Pasta Paradise | Jun. 2004 |
| "If you haven’t tasted native Italian Marcellino Verzino’s cooking, you’re missing out on one of the Valley’s finest imports." |
| Camelback - Bruce Farr | That’s Amore! Biltmore entrepreneurs bring more to the table than just great food | Jun. 2004 |
| Arizona Foothills - Melissa Castleman | Passage to Italy, A vibrant duo brings the best of Italy to a neighborhood hotspot in Phoenix | Oct. 2004 |
| Phoenix Magazine | Best New Restaurants, Marcellino Ristorante | Oct. 2004 |
| Phoenix New Times - Stephen Lemons | The Prince of Pasta | Nov. 2004 |
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I've been jonesing of late for some really excellent house-made pasta. No doubt what brought this on was my slightly disappointing visit a couple of weeks back to the James Hotel's Fiamma Trattoria, where it seemed like everything but its house-made pasta was first-class. Since the James tirelessly trumpets the laurels of its chefs and offers its pasta as the restaurant's specialty, the listless, unappetizing semolina squiggles I ate there sent me into a tailspin of depression. Why, the only thing that's left me more morose of late has been the demise of that musty, old grande dame of an eatery Beef Eaters on West Camelback. Golly, I wondered to my lonesome, there must be some place in town that serves primo pasta worthy of its ancient Italian heritage. That's when it struck me that I'd never gotten around to visiting Marcellino Ristorante on Northern Avenue near 13th Street. The restaurant has been in business for about a year, and the scuttlebutt has been overwhelmingly positive. So with a spring in my step and an emptiness in my belly crying out to be filled, I set out in search of what I hoped would be a pasta house worthy of my appreciation. As I quickly discovered, "pasta palace" is more like it, run by a Principe della Pasta (Prince of Pasta), along with his vivacious, beautiful spouse. I speak here of owners Marcellino and Sima Verzino, who have quickly carved a place for themselves in the Valley's culinary scene. Marcellino was born in the Italian village of Reino, in southern Italy's Campania region, and he has run successful, highly praised restaurants both in Rome and New York. It was while still in Rome that he met his wife of eight years, Sima, a native New Yorker who was in Italy at the time working as a Broadway-style singer and dancer. Together, they ran restaurants in Gotham for several years before visiting Arizona, and deciding to make the big move to the desert. The space Marcellino's inhabits is warm and cozy, redesigned by the Verzinos keeping only some of the former tenant's green slate, while painting the walls terra cotta and transforming the ceiling into a beige, faux canopy. There's a chic bar in the back, to the left of which is a reproduction of La Bocca della Verità, or the Mouth of Truth, located just outside Rome's Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin. (Used to great effect in the 1953 William Wyler film Roman Holiday with Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn.) To the right of the bar is a wine-tasting room that can be closed off by curtains if need be. It's here that Governor Janet Napolitano, a frequent guest of the Verzinos, dines. Indeed, according to Sima, Napolitano supped here with Ron Reagan the night before ASU's historic Gammage Auditorium debate. Before the bar are candlelit tables, with beige tablecloths set with orange bread plates. On the left-hand side of the establishment is a slightly elevated area with more tables. The lighting is soft, and the stereo plays jazzy standards by Rosemary Clooney, Louis Prima and an assortment of Italian singers. Waiters are clad in black and provide superb service, with Sima making the rounds as hostess to assure everyone is as happy as they ought to be. If things are going well in the kitchen, Marcellino himself might make an appearance, taking a drink at the bar or saying hello to regular customers. The menu offers pastas, as well as fish, fowl and meat entrees. The latter are a bit pricier, but if you stick to the pasta dishes, two persons can eat dinner with appetizers and dessert for about $100, excluding tip. That's quite a bargain when you consider these are fresh, handmade, gourmet pastas that are so perfect they'd make Tony Soprano weep tears of joy. My first night at Marcellino's, I had a bowl of the paccatelli al ragu di salciccia. These squat, thick rectangles of pasta (a creation of the chef's) came in a ragu of ground sausage and tomatoes that was the perfect complement to the paccatelli's springy consistency. This paccatelli is a regular item on the menu, but my companion chose one of the pastas of the day, a saffron linguini served with clams and broccoli di rape, a slightly bitter broccoli that's so soft it caresses the tongue as you eat it. The saffron linguini was flavorful and fresh, akin to eating the best just-baked bread you can imagine. During my next visit, I wised up and decided to do a chef's tasting of three pastas, which Marcellino's will do if there are three in your party, for a mere $21.95 a plate. It made for a splendid repast, with gnocchi, porcini-infused fettuccine, and one very large ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta. I particularly adored the gnocchi, those starchy nuggets of joy, made of potato, pasta and mozzarella and bathed in a light tomato sauce. Stuffing those delightful dumplings into my gluttonous gullet made me thank my lucky stars I'm a food critic! The porcini-infused fettuccine was exquisite, like a love sonnet next to the gnocchi's ribald limerick. Topped with shiitake mushrooms and white truffle oil, it nearly sang in my mouth with an earthiness borne of its ingredients. The ravioli covered in a patina of butter and sage was also magnificent, even if it didn't demand to be noticed along the same lines of the fettuccine or the gnocchi. As mentioned above, Marcellino's bill of fare offers far more than pasta, even if my jones for it got the best of me this time. In addition to appetizers like thinly sliced carpaccios of raw tuna and beef -- both of which I sampled and swooned over -- there are entrees such as calves' liver flambed with cognac; filet mignon; lamb chops; and salmon. If an ounce of the genius applied to the pastas is also focused on such entrees, I'm certain they're without parallel. For dessert, there are a few options, but insist on the panna cotta, as a richer and creamier version of same would be difficult to imagine. Round out your evening with a shot or two of Marcellino's house-made limoncello, a sweet vodka-lemon digestif, meaning it not only packs a punch but will aid in the digestion of your meal. It's one of the many personal touches of the place that makes an evening here such a fulfilling experience. I feel immensely spoiled by Marcellino's, and I don't know how anyone else's pasta will ever come close. |
| Valley Guide - Paul Morris | Buon Appetito! | Jan. 2005 |
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"He (Marcellino) and his wife, Sima, run a spectacular eatery where the chef crafts his menu with all the attention and skill of a great artist using a palette of fresh Italian ingredients." |
| Scottsdale Republic - Eileen Bailey | Dining Out | Jan. 2005 |
| AOL City Guide - Cecil Tuck | Neighborhood Italian eatery joins Valley elite. | Jan. 2005 |
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Many neighborhood restaurants aspire to great heights, but few succeed. That's why local foodies are lauding this North Phoenix strip-mall eatery that ranks among the Valley elite. Owner/chef Marcellino Verzino, who has cooked throughout Italy and several top Italian restaurants in New York, transformed a dreary location into a classy destination that attracts diners from throughout the area. Marcellino Ristorante overcomes its storefront heritage with streamlined, handsome design touches such as terra cotta-colored walls, a two-tiered dining area, warm lighting and sheer fabric window shades that screen out the parking lot view. The menu features traditional Italian cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh, top-quality ingredients and bold flavors. For lunch and dinner, Marcellino makes pasta the star; waiters demonstrate the evening's pasta specials, showcasing them on a display plate. In addition to the half-dozen specials, the menu features seven more options. Seafood gets special treatment with dishes like zuppa de pesce -- shellfish, salmon and rockfish floating in an aromatic tomato broth. Filet mignon is a thick cut of beef in a rich Barolo wine reduction and drizzled with truffle-infused olive oil. Part of Marcellino's warmth comes from the greeting you receive at the door from the chef's gracious wife, Sima, who also thanks you as you leave. With the food and dining experience both earning the highest marks, this is no budget-priced neighborhood eatery. While lunches are less, dinner for two, including an appetizer, main dish and dessert, usually runs about $60. If that's not too big a hurdle, you're likely to become a regular. |
| Item Magazine | Editorial interns – Review - Vol. 3 Issue 2 | 2005 |
| Arizona Republic - Karen Fernau | Italian Summer / As the heat drags on, dip into fresh, light dishes | Sep. 2005 |
| North Central News - Tara Blanc | Dining Briefs | Sep. 2005 |
| Phoenix New Times - Stephen Lemons | Best Upscale Italian Restaurant - Best of 2005 | Oct. 2005 |
| You will not nosh better pasta in town than at Marcellino Ristorante. Period. End of story. Yes, there are plenty of other high-class Italian joints in the Valley; maybe too many, if you catch our drift. And, yes, you can get your fill of semolina sticks elsewhere and feel satisfied with yourself for not spending too many ducats, but if you experience the handmade pastas at Marcellino's, what you eat elsewhere will seem like Chef Boyardee by comparison. That's because Chef Marcellino Verzino is a true maestro who began cooking at age 11 on his father's farm in Italy, and has since performed culinary magic in acclaimed restaurants in Rome and New York. He and his enchanting bride Sima decided to start over in Phoenix in 2003, and our lives have been the richer for it. Verzino's gnocchi, linguini, strozzaprete and capellini are unforgettable. And if you're not in the mood for such heavenly starchiness, Verzino's non-pasta entrees are equally gustable, like gamberi affogati, jumbo shrimp sautéed with white wine, or fegato all'uva, calves' liver sautéed with grapes, then flambéed with cognac. And if it's pricier than an evening at a mom-and-pop pasta shop, remember: You get what you pay for, bucko. |
| Phoenix New Times - Stephen Lemons | Best Upscale Italian Restaurant - Best of 2006 | Oct. 2006 |
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How good are the handmade pastas at Marcellino's? So good we'd eat 'em off the men's room floor of a Chevron station, capisce? Marcellino Verzino is the real deal, a true Italian, who's owned and operated award-winning restaurants in both Rome and NYC. It's in Rome that he met his beautiful, vivacious partner-for-life, Sima, who runs the front of the house, while Marcellino busies himself with his artistry in the kitchen. Sure, if the guy wanted to, he might be able to get away with using a superlative pre-made pasta, but where's the joy in that for an old farm boy who still enjoys making things from scratch? So there's saffron linguini, porcini-infused fettuccine, potato gnocchi, fettuccine that's black from squid ink, and so on. There's more to the menu than pasta, like the calves' liver flambéed with cognac, and scaloppine in a Gorgonzola sauce. But they don't call Marcellino the prince of pasta for nothing, bucko, so pasta is what we want from this Roman emperor of edibles. |
| Food & Life Arizona - Anissa Cowley | Passion Issue – Sima and Marcellino Verzino of Marcellino Ristorante | Feb. 2006 |
| Arizona Republic - Karen Fernau | Ask the Chef: Presto! Tasty Pesto easy to make at home | Mar. 2006 |
| NightLife Magazine - Kevin Lambert | The Valley’s Italian Heaven: Marcellino Ristorante | Oct. 2006 |
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"It is a true escape, and it is marvelous." |
| Phoenix Magazine | Restaurants UPCLOSE, Chef CLOSE-UP | Nov. 2006 |
| AZ Central - Claire Bush | Marcellino Ristorante | Feb. 2007 |
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Instead of a menu and wine list, guests at Marcellino Ristorante could just as easily be perusing a playbill and scanning the stage set. That's because dinner at this rollicking neighborhood Italian eatery has all the elements of live theater, presented with gusto and good humor six nights a week. A dramatic tone is set at the entrance, where diners push aside a velvet drape in the vestibule to reveal a warmly lit, two-tiered dining room within. Decor is unapologetically old-world amore, with red-flocked wallpaper, ceiling draped in fabric and warbling Italian music in the background; all that's lacking is a maitre'd kissing his fingers and shouting "Bellisimo!" Snag a window seat if you can; the shopping mall view is cleverly hidden by screens, and you'll have a good vantage point to observe the eatery's mistress of merriment, Sima Verzino. While Sima's husband Marcellino works his wizardry with fettuccine and scallopine in the kitchen, the former R&B singer flits expertly among the tables, dispensing greetings and wisecracks right on cue. Soon after we were seated, the waiter delivered the evening's handmade pasta specials, uncooked and artistically arranged on a massive tray, for pre-dinner preview. On this and a previous visit, I was impressed by the staff's vivacity and enthusiasm; whatever Marcellino is cooking up seems to agree with the help. While pondering, we munched on chewy, rustic bread served with roasted red pepper and eggplant puree. In addition to daily specials, diners can opt for about eight pastas from the menu, as well as chicken, seafood, veal and lamb dishes. Entrees are served a la carte and average $25. A foolproof choice among the starters, pear salad ($9.95) is a fresh tasting mix of pear and watercress with slivers of robust pecorino cheese and lemon dressing, arranged in a whimsical teepee shape. Scallops with pesto sauce ($16.95) and grilled shrimp with feta cheese served over shredded cabbage ($14.95) are other standouts. We chose cacio e pepe from the day's pasta specials, a hearty medley of black pepper-infused pasta finished with cheese, caramelized onions, pancetta (Italian bacon) and red sauce. From the menu, we opted for a good-sized slab of salmon dipped in porcini flour then sautéed in leeks and cognac, with a rich, earthy flavor that contrasted nicely with mashed potatoes served alongside. Paccatelli al ragu di salsiccia ($18.95) a wonderfully flavorful mixture of herbs, plum tomatoes, wine and sausage over just-chewy-enough pasta is another sure shot from the menu. For parties of three or more, the pasta trio ($26.95) is a good way to sample this dish as well as gnocchi (potato and pasta "pillows") and red linguini, served with shrimp, scallops and herbs. Other menu specialties include pork tenderloin rolled with prosciutto and watercress with port wine sauce ($24.95) and rack of lamb ($32.95). Ricotta cheesecake ($8.95), presented flambé atop a pretty grid work of melted chocolate, was a memorable end to dinner. A three course tasting dinner is available Monday through Thursday nights for $55, with wine pairings for an additional $10. The restaurant also features monthly wine tasting dinners by reservation in a private room for up to 18 "Kings and Queens." |
| Trends - Karen Dawson | Trends in Dining | Apr. 2007 |
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I do not understand this low-carb, no-carb, bad-versus-good-carb diet fascination…I want them, I need them, and I am a better person for them. So, I make pasta at home because I am normally disappointed whenever I dine out, until now. Marcellino Ristorante resides in a demure storefront setting on Northern Avenue. It is owned by Chef Marcellino, who has shown his talents in Italy, Greece and New York along with his wife, Sima Verzino. Don’t let their modest setup fool you. As soon as you enter and pass through the red velvet drapes, you are quickly transported from strip mall to piazza. The warm and inviting atmosphere makes you feel like you are dining at your Nona’s house. There is an old world décor, decently spacious dining room and an inviting bar smack dab in front of you. But let’s get serious – I’m here for the pasta. The server arrives with a plate of airy homemade focaccia with roasted red pepper and eggplant puree…I am happy. Then, he displays the nightly pasta specials that really awaken that pleasure-carb center in my brain. It is a tray of neatly twisted, naked, uncooked pastas accompanied by a knowledgeable description of each and their assigned sauces. Prices are not mentioned, so you may want to ask. For starters, the caprese of fresh mozzarella, tomatoes and basil ($10.95) is perfect, the carpaccio di manzo ($13.95) is substantially sliced with pungent arugula, mushrooms and Parmigiano…some of the best I’ve had. The insalata ortolana – a salad of fava beans, radish, olives, spinach and arugula (9.95) – was simple and earthy; however, I sent a search party for the fava beans…found them yet? Please call. Dining at Marcellino Ristorante will require a bit of a generous budget and several hours; however, keep in mind . terrific food and topnotch ingredients require both. Daily entrees include fish, meats, chicken, veal and lamb, and at least a half-dozen pasta entrees on the menu ($18-$26). Each piece of pasta at Marcellino is meticulously crafted with pride from the hands of an artisan and then paired with a sauce that perfectly balances flavors and textures. The pappardelle with wild boar ragu proves that this combination is indulgent and luxurious. The saffron linguine sautéed with manila clams and broccoli di rape is simply tossed with olive oil and garlic; it’s not especially glamorous but that’s precisely the beauty of it. The cacao e pepe – a black pepper, flecked pasta with caramelized onions, pancetta and a tangy red sauce – is a commingling of sweet, salty and tangy. If you choose to deviate from the pasta selections, the meat and fish entrees are first-rate as well. Veal scaloppini al gorgonzola ($26.95), sautéed tender veal slices with a velvety gorgonzola sauce; filet con tartufo ($36.95), a superbly cooked filet with a beautiful Barolo wine reduction and a drizzle of truffle oil; or the Atlantic salmon with a whisper of a porcini crust with leeks and cognac ($23.95) are all flavorful and elegant choices. After several virtually flawless dining experiences at Marcellino, I now will rarely mess up my kitchen, or manicure, with flour, eggs and a kitchen aid. I have found pasta perfection without the need for a passport. This experience will require a bit of a generous budget and several hours; however, keep in mind, fresh pasta is labor intensive, and terrific food and topnotch ingredients require both of the aforementioned. |
| The Moon Valley Tattler | Restaurant Review | Apr. 2007 |
| Phoenician Times - Allison DuBois | Favorite Local Eateries | April 2007 |
| Arizona Republic - Laura Trujillo | Marcellino Serving Summer Specials | Jul. 2007 |
| Red Nightlife - Michael Zydzik | The Noshpit: Marcellino Ristorante (p.42) | Sep. 2007 |
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What makes a restaurant great? A great restaurant is more than the sum of its parts; service, food and atmosphere working together to create a memorable experience. A truly special restaurant, however, is all of that but more importantly reflects the personality of the owner and chef behind the establishment. When you are at a restaurant like this you sense the very heart and soul behind it. Marcellino Ristorante is one of those rare special restaurants. The soul of Marcellino’s greets you at the door in the form Sima Verzino, wife and business partner to Chef Marcellino Verzino. We will get to Chef and his incredible talent in a moment if you just allow me to gush over Sima. Having a background in fashion, theatre, dance and R&B singing (a European recording contract with chart hits to boot) Sima sets the tone for a vivacious dining experience. Simply put Sima is unpretentious, casually elegant and one helluva woman with the grace to make you feel comfortable and welcome. She leads you to the main dining room with a canopied leather-upholstered ceiling and soothing terra cotta palette that gives you an uncanny sense of dining al fresco. Note to all Valley Italian-themed housing communities – THIS is Tuscan. At the center of all of this magnificence is Chef Marcellino himself, the heart of the restaurant. An Italian native born in the Campania region of southern Italy, Marcellino was already working as a private chef by the age of 20. He moved to Rome where he owned and operated his bar and bistro Erasmo and then found his way to New York City. There, he was partner and executive chef at four Italian restaurants where his cooking quickly met rave reviews not least of which was acknowledgement by The James Beard Foundation. Here in Phoenix, Marcellino’s has received a five star rating from The Arizona Republic and a Best New Restaurant award from Phoenix Magazine. The couple are authentic in all aspects of the business and spend every August traveling Italy soaking up and tasting what the culinary countryside has to offer. They then take great pride in spoiling us with their delicious new ideas the entire rest of the year. Sima and Chef had prepared a 3-course tasting menu for Levi and I on a hot Wednesday evening which turned into an early supper of memory-lingering proportions. We started with an Antipasti duo – Salmone Tartar of diced fresh Atlantic Salmon tossed with balsamic, extra virgin olive oil, touch of lemon and sprinkled with toasted sesame seeds. A fresh and lively dish with the lemon dressing being a bright, clean note and elevating the collection of flavors. Bufala Mozzarella and Prosciutto San Daniele is Imported Bufala mozzarella and tomato wrapped in Prosciutto San Daniele and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. The rich saltiness of the Proscuitto blanketing the mellow creaminess of the mozzarella – so amazing it left me feeling like a kid at Disneyland getting off of the first ride running to the second: Handmade Pasta Duo – Ravioli con Burro e Salvia – handmade ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and spinach glistening with brown butter and sage. The salty, nuttiness of the brown butter infused with sage against the mellow creaminess of the ricotta and spinach filling were perfectly opposed. I simply was not prepared for flavors of such monumentality and this dish wins as my hands-down favorite of the evening. Paccatelli al Ragu di Salsiccia – short springy handmade pasta with a hearty sausage ragu of fresh rosemary, sage, garlic, white wine and plum tomatoes. A collective of textures and day-long simmered flavors starting with pasta so perfectly resistant to the bite as to give you the sense that your about to taste something substantial and equally terrific. It’s a brief but memorable stay in hearty, zesty Italy. Secondi – Medallions of Roast Pork Tenderloin- Tenderloin rolled with Prosciutto and watercress then bathed in a fine port reduction and Pollo Saporito – chicken breast sautéed with freshly sliced mushrooms, sun-dried tomato and pinoli nuts with a touch of tomato. Here again, in both dishes, Chef demonstrates his ability to perfectly pair opposing flavors and how that juxtaposition adds up to so much more. In the case of the pork medallions, the richness is cut by the saltiness of the Prosciutto and the clean almost peppery bite of the watercress. And in the Saporito, earthy heartiness of mushroom is dotted and punctuated with a rich tanginess from the sun-dried tomatoes. My stay in Marcellino’s Italy was exsquisite. I can still taste Chef’s food in my mind and when food can leave a lasting impression like that you know the gauntlet has been thrown down and you are forced to measure the rest against it. My only regret is not having room for dessert, which, by the way all of Marcellino’s desserts are made in house and really, what did you expect? But there is next time, as I will be back not only for the glorious food but because I feel like I have made friends. So, I’m looking you in the eye and telling you – run don’t walk. Damn the speed limits and pish posh to pedestrians. Get to Marcellino’s as fast as you can. Cin cin! |
| Blacktie Arizona - Candy Lesher | Special Announcements: Marcellino Ristorante | Mar. 2008 |
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The reality of dining out is, most restaurants are boring – if you’re factoring in the hordes of chains and franchises. Though initially this sounds depressing, there’s a silver lining here; finding a magnificent eatery – one that offers the consummate dining experience – becomes a milestone worth loosening the purse strings for. Like celebrated works of art, the consummate dining experience mingles that indefinable element of artistic genius with passion and talent, culminating in a sensual experience well beyond the mere perceptions of décor, aroma and taste. Great art grabs you, tugs you in, triggers deep-seated feelings, then allows you to pull away at your leisure. So does a magnificent restaurant. I discovered Marcellino Ristorante soon after opening in late 2003 and quickly grew to admire Campania-born Marcellino Verzino’s authentic Italian fare and NYC wife Sima’s savvy front-of-the-house management; they were a formidable team even early on. I felt so strongly about their combined talents that I penned the predication, “Marcellino’s should be around for years to come.” Still, could that lively little bistro sweep me off my feet four years later? It had been way too long since I’d surrendered myself to hand-made pasta. Despite its unremarkable location, Marcellino’s exudes a warm and enveloping atmosphere, from its charming patio outside to the richly upholstered ceiling within. A narrow, wrought-iron framed dais on one side accommodates a half dozen tables, providing a sense of separation from the main restaurant, while a “private” dining area in the far corner offers an intimate and exclusive niche for private parties and wine tastings. A veritable renaissance man, the restaurant’s wine rack system was built by Chef Marcellino himself, as were many of the restaurants other enhancements, while the décor reflects Sima’s sophisticated sense of style and design. Settling in, Sima stopped at our table to welcome us and shared – one of the Valley’s best tenor’s, Jaime Flora, would be performing at various intervals throughout the evening. While our server left to fetch libations, another server narrated the day’s pasta specials to the table behind us. Eavesdropping, goose bumps prickled my arm by the end of his oration; I simply had to have the lobster filled ravioli in saffron sauce. There were more goose bumps when Flora broke into a stirring song – all sung in Italian of course – that seemed to speak of love and happy times. Conversations simply tapered off as his melodious voice mesmerized the packed bistro. Sigh – two rounds of major goose bumps and I had yet to take a single bite. We began our meal with one of the evening’s special appetizers, a huge scallop boasting a golden caramelized crust and still-supple interior. Droplets of truffle oil and fragrant black truffle shavings atop gave a decadent, earthy character that has redefined “surf and turf” in my book. Of course, we couldn’t pass up the CARPACCIO DI TONNO ($15.95) either; those melting, paper-thin shavings of Ahi atop a nest of arugula anointed with Marcellino’s lemony mint dressing were divine. Polenta fans – and those who keep trying polenta in hopes of being won over – will love the CANESTINA DI POLENTA ai FUNGHI MISTI ($14.95); the rustic nature of grilled polenta is emphasized via a medley of mushrooms and drizzle of precious truffle oil. Mussel lovers can happily dive into Marcellino’s classic COZZE in BIANCO o ROSSO ($13.95), sautéed with olive oil, white wine and garlic or a spicy marinara. Salad devotees will gravitate towards the INSALATA ORTOLANA ($10.95), a vivid combination of roasted red pepper, black olives, creamy fava beans, red onion and radish atop nutty arugula and spinach; true to Campania’s straightforward cooking, a simple drizzle of exquisite olive oil moistens the arrangement. If you’re lucky enough to visit during pear season, treat yourself to the INSALATA di PERA ($11.95), a memorable yet unpretentious marriage of voluptuous ripe pear, peppery watercress, thin curls of Pecorino Romano and a light, lemon-kissed dressing. It was the pasta that I so vividly remembered; Chef Marcellino hand-makes all his pastas daily. Here the brilliant yet whimsical side of his artistry comes through. Though his basic pasta dough is sublime and would put him on any gastronomic map, he never passes up the opportunity to surprise and delight, using everything from herbs, vegetables and cheese to saffron, squid ink or spicy peperoncino to flavor and color his doughs. Case in point, we dined on one of his inspired specials, an intriguing Pecorino Romano pasta with wine sauce. The aromatic dough was actually 25% Pecorino cheese, giving it a sharply distinctive profile, one well suited to the garlic, pancetta and wine sauce it had been tossed with. One pasta dish should have been enough – but no – I had to order the ravioli whose description alone had given me the goose bumps. Opulent lobster bits were tucked within this dual-hued ravioli made from pasta infused with coal-black squid ink and inset with a stripe of golden, saffron-steeped pasta. If art deco was depicted as food, this would be its poster child. Those stunning rectangles arrived in a light saffron scented cream sauce that was so delicious, I broke my pledge not to expend calories on bread; after devouring the ravioli, every last ounce of remaining sauce was sopped up. Had there been room, I would have succumbed to GNOCCHI SORRENTINA ($22.95) too; those light-as-a-feather potato dumplings are a refreshing reminder of what gnocchi should be. It’s hard to resist Marcellino’s SCIALATIELLI ALLE VONGOLE ($22.95) too; this “fat spaghetti” is given a quick turn in the pan with olive oil, garlic, Manila clams, white wine and a kick of peperoncino. Still, the hearty “carne” options may entice you to at least consider limiting that pasta order. Chicken is – well – chicken, unless you're dining on FAGOTTINO DI POLLO ($23.95) of split chicken breast layered with prosciutto and creamy fontina cheese before sautéing with garlic, white wine and fresh sage. Those looking for a taste of the “old country” will rejoice over Marcellino’s FAGATO ALL’UVA ($25.95) of fresh calf liver flash-seared with juicy grapes then splashed with cognac, flambéed and offered up with an unpretentious version of mashed potatoes. Equally appealing would be the veal SCALOPPINE AL GORGONZOLA ($28.95) or FILET MIGNON CON TARTUFO ($38.95); that aged filet is grilled then drizzled with aromatic truffle oil and presented with a Barolo wine reduction. My most recent visit, I placed myself in chef’s hands. Trust me, I wasn’t disappointed when out came a surprise special for the night, the most impressive osso bucco I had ever seen; this osso bucco for two was a huge two-pound shank, spoon-tender and set off with a delectably light wine sauce (with meat this good – why hide it?). My carnivore-loving partner practically swooned with joy. Flanked by a generous mound of creamy saffron-infused risotto, I noted how rich and yet light this risotto was. Every grain was distinct yet creamy; there wasn’t a hint of “cheating” either (chefs have been known to enrich with heavy cream rather than stand and constantly stir in order to entice the rice to release its starch, which is what makes authentic risotto so divinely creamy). I admit – when writing reviews I often create a list of must-order items for my next visit; I’ve already created three four-course menus and I have yet to talk about seafood (which I suspect translates to four more visits). The set seafood menu is short, since Marcellino prefers to see what is pristinely fresh on a daily basis then adds it to his nightly specials. Rest assured, Marcellino knows how to bring out the best in seafood, like his ZUPPA DI PESCE ($31.95). A medley of classic Mediterranean sea fare including clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari, scallops and the day’s freshest catch are sautéed in a touch of olive oil, garlic, white wine and ripe tomatoes; each releases its own juices during cooking, creating a delectable broth that resonates with the ocean’s essence; this zuppa requires nothing more than accompanying toasted slices of Italian bread. Salmon aficionados should set their sights on SALMONE IN CROSTA DI PORCINI CON COGNAC E PORRI ($24.95), featuring salmon dipped in earthy porcini flour then sautéed with leeks and cognac. Desserts at Marcellino’s rotate regularly, but my favorite is his signature PANNA COTTA ($9.95). This pristine custard is so creamy and delicate that even after overindulging, I can take in a little dolce while basking in the warm memories of the evening; this particular visit became memorable indeed when Marcellino himself came out and chimed in with the talented tenor, to the delight of Sima and the still-full bistro. Multiple pleasures and indulgences are the norm at Marcellino’s, but didn’t I say, that’s what great art and a magnificent eatery have in common? Sima and Marcellino have created an atmosphere filled with culinary artistry that embraces you, elicits scintillating sensations and then allows you to compose yourself before exiting their carefully crafted masterpiece. Let the goose bumps begin… |